Care_for_Bunny

Rabbits communicate sometimes by nipping (biting). They might be saying, “Pay
squealing noise
so they know they hurt you. Then tell the bunny “ No.” Never hit your bunny.
They will come to know you and start nudging you instead of nipping.
For other tips on rabbit behavior, check out the House Rabbit Society website:
http://www.rabbit.org/
It is important to understand rabbit behavior. Rabbits are the most common prey for
predators in nature. For this reason, their instincts tell them to run if something comes
after them. Do not give a young rabbit too much freedom too soon. If you have to
chase them to catch them, it sets up a bad precedent and the rabbit will run from the
feet (that is all they see) coming after them as a means of survival. The best way to
treat a new bunny brought home is to handle it as much as possible and for at least 20
minutes at each handling. The first 10 minutes the animal is being held it may be
nervous and unresponsive, but by the second 10 minutes, it will begin to be curious
and check out the handler. Immediately after handling, put the rabbit back in its cage.
If the rabbit is to be a family pet, I recommend that one person be chosen to be the
handler for the first few days. If the rabbit is for a child, I recommend that introduction
to the child's playmates come after the rabbit has been accustomed to its new owner
and environment. The first few days should be quiet days filled with gentle handling,
soft talking to the bunny and introduction of various treats in moderation. Bonding
during the first few days is the primary objective.
When first ready to give the rabbit freedom, do so in a confined space. Try sitting on
the bathroom floor with the door closed. Let the rabbit loose, let it run around and over
you, pick it up occasionally and put it back down. After about a week to 10 days of the
bonding period most rabbits will begin to come up to the owner on their own and not
struggle if picked up.
Although I have had some wonderful pets, which were, does, I still prefer to
recommend bucks for pets for several reasons. Does can become moody or
aggressive as they reach sexual maturity. While most breeders have no problem
dealing with this behavior, it can be quite distressing for the pet owner. Some does
become territorial and aggressive and it is just part of their nature. In general, does
will also be more destructive around the house. In nature they are the nest builders
and so a pet doe in a home will often be looking to build that nest out of whatever
materials she can finds such as draperies, carpeting, pillows and cushions.
While some bucks can also be destructive in the home, I have found this trait much
more common in does. A nest building doe must be protected from herself as well.
While you may be willing to put up with destructive behavior, it is unsafe for the
animal. Fibers can become impacted in the rabbit's stomach causing a blockage or
can even be aspirated to cause breathing problems.
Both bucks and does seem to be equally guilty of loving to chew on electrical wires.
The best way to protect your bunny is to put PVC pipe or aquarium tubing around all of
your exposed cords.
If you are going to have a pet rabbit loose in the house and your rabbit tends to be
destructive, you will need to provide your bunny with safe things as an outlet for this
destructive behavior. Cardboard boxes with some hay enclosed make wonderful toys
for them. They also love to rip up newspapers. Now this is going to take a devoted
pet lover because the mess will be unbelievable and you must pick up after them.
I have always been adamant about having a cage for a pet rabbit. A cage is a safe
place for your bunny. It gives you a safe place to put the rabbit when you are not at
home. Also, if your bunny is fed in the cage, you will find your bunny is okay with living
in a cage. Also provide any treats for the rabbit in the cage environment. Many
rabbits are very attached to their cages as their safe and quiet place and are not
always eager to come out. Also if your bunny becomes sick, that cage is needed as a
place to doctor and monitor the animal's health. A rabbit belongs in a cage when you
are not around if you have cats or dogs in your home. You may feel your dogs and
cats get along fine with rabbits, but don't make the mistake of leaving them alone
together. A dog left alone in a house behaves differently and may decide the rabbit is
a toy or a rag toy. Not all dog attacks come about as a result of vicious dogs.
Sometimes the dogs just play too hard for a rabbit. Even a dog just chasing a rabbit
can be detrimental to the life of your rabbit. GET A CAGE for your rabbit's safety and
your piece of mind.

HEALTH:

Rabbits do not require any shots.
Rabbits love to gnaw. Their teeth grow constantly. To help keep their teeth even
keep a piece of
untreated, unpainted wood in the cage. As long as your rabbit has the proper teeth
alignment
(top teeth overlap bottom teeth), they will wear their teeth down with chewing.
Your bunny may like to play with an empty soda or tuna fish can.
Heat kills more rabbits every year than anything else.
During hot months, a frozen 2 liter pop bottle filled with water will keep your bunny
cool.
If you are not planning on breeding your rabbit, it is recommend that you have it
spayed or neutered.
75% of female rabbits develop uterine cancer when not kept bred.

If your rabbit becomes stressed, you can put them on Acid Pak 4 Way for 5-7 days.
You use 3/8 teaspoon to 1 gallon of water. Acid Pak 4 Way helps the digestive system.

RABBITS OFF FEED:

There are several reason's a rabbit will go off feed. You need to watch and try to find
out the reason, and get rid of the problem. I'm sure I won't be able to list them all, but I
will list some of them:

1. LACK OF FRESH WATER a rabbit will NOT eat if it does not have a supply of
water! Check and make sure your rabbit has a clean supply, and that the nipple's
aren't clogged on water systems!

2. STALE FEED a rabbit is picky about their food. If it is old, or contaminated, they will
refuse to eat it. Also, if you have changed their diet, they might resist the change.

3. TOO MANY TREATS if a Rabbit is given too many treats, they will not eat their
regular food. To find out if this is the problem, you take them all away and see if they
start eating again in 3 days or so.

4. BAD TEETH a rabbit cannot eat if they cannot get a hold of the food and get it in! If
the rabbit has overgrown teeth, just use a pair of needle nose wire cutters and
carefully trim them, or take them to a vet to do this.

5. HAIRBALLS a rabbit will not eat if they have hairballs. Treat with either an over the
counter remedy, or with Adolph's Meat Tenderizer(1/2 teaspoon) mixed with a favorite
treat(I use pumpkin), or use any other "good" home remedy, until you notice them pass
the mass with the fur ball in it.

6. ILLNESS if you rabbit is sick, they will sometimes go off their feed. I would rule out
the other 5 first, then take the rabbit to a vet to find out what is going on.

Remember that a rabbit cannot feed or water themselves! They need you, their
caretaker, to provide for them and their needs. It is up to you, the breeder/owner, to
make sure they are getting the right food in the proper amounts.

HOUSING :

Each rabbit requires its own cage. Keep the cage in a dry, shaded, well ventilated
area.
Keep your bunny safe. Cats, Dogs, Raccoons, Owls, etc love to eat bunnies.
A 24 x 24 cage is usually adequate space, larger rabbits require a 24 x 30 cage.
Since rabbits can't do it themselves, you will have to clean their cage.
To disinfect, use one part bleach to 8 parts water. Wash thoroughly then rinse & let
dry.
You need to understand the nutritional needs of your bunny. Too many owners want
to give their rabbits treats to the exclusion of all else. I must stress the importance of
the commercial rabbit pellets. Treats should be just that "TREATS" given sparingly
and with love. Hay and a small treat daily will keep your rabbit healthy and happy.
Never feed treats to the point that your rabbit gives up eating pellets.

COOLING METHODS:

Here are some tips on how to keep your bunnies cool during the summer:

1.Place a frozen water bottle in the cage with your rabbit. Fill a 2 liter pop bottle with
water and then freeze it. Its best to keep an extra on hand, since it takes 24 hours to
refreeze it.

2.Place a soaker hose around your cage and water. The evaporation cools the air
down.

3.Place a wet piece of burlap or rug on top of your cage.

4.Place a fan so it has air moving past your cage (not directly on your rabbit).

5.Place a cement stepping stone or piece of ceramic tile in the cage and wet it. (this
requires a sturdy cage)

6.Use an evaporative cooler in your barn. (bonus-place ice cubes or a frozen water
bottle in the pan of water in the evaporative cooler) Be sure to have good ventilation
so ammonia doesn't build up.

7.Use an air conditioner in your barn. Be sure to have good ventilation (air being
pulled out) so ammonia doesn't build up.

8.Mist water on your rabbits ears and face.

METHODS OF LITTER BOX TRAINING:

The following methods describe and have been used for litter box training and been
found most effective.

1. Fill the litter box 1/4 to 1/2 full of litter. Corn cob litter or just plain wood shavings
(not cedar) work terrific. Place the litter box in the corner of the cage, preferably the
corner the rabbit normally chooses as its bathroom spot. A rabbit will in most cases
uses the same corner of its cage. By putting the litter pan in that corner, the rabbit will
associate the box with going to the bathroom. Another Tip to use, is to place a few of
the rabbits droppings in the pan before placing it in the cage. This way the rabbit has
the sent and is more likely to jump in and check it out.

2. After placing the litter box in the desired area let the rabbit out to run. Then pick the
rabbit up and place it in the litter box. If this does not appear to be working continue
the procedure every few minutes until it catches the sent and associates this as its
bathroom spot.

3. Once the rabbit has used the litter box on its own, use some positive reinforcement,
with a small treat and some praise. This will help the rabbit to understand that it is a
good thing to use the litter box. Soon, the bunny will use it like clock work and won't
need the extra treat.

PLEASE NOTE:

Keeping the litter pan cleaned and disinfected is important. If the pan becomes to dirty,
the rabbit will move to another spot. It is also important for good rabbit health to keep
the pans sanitized.

Your Rabbit